By: Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer As summer heats up, it’s great to know your home’s air conditioning system can provide relief. It’s also good to know you can find a cold beverage in your refrigerator to cool down with. That wouldn’t be possible without the refrigeration process pioneered in 1834 by Jacob Perkins, who introduced the first commercially successful vapor-compression refrigeration system using ether. For air conditioning systems, a refrigerant evaporates inside a coil and changes from a liquid to a gas. As it does, the refrigerant absorbs heat from inside your home and the system transfers it out. The amount of heat removed and how efficiently it is done depends in large part on the type of refrigerant used. For nearly 200 years, the refrigeration industry sought to develop the perfect refrigerant that would be efficient, non-corrosive, non-toxic, and non-flammable, with no ozone depletion and global warming potential. However, the first air conditioners and refrigerators employed toxic or flammable gases, such as ammonia, sulfur dioxide, methyl chloride or propane that often resulted in fatal accidents when they leaked. Then, in 1928, Thomas Midgley Jr. created the first non-flammable, non-toxic chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) gas: Freon® (R-12). However, by the mid-1970s, scientists discovered CFCs such as R-12, were causing major damage to the ozone layer that protects the earth from ultraviolet radiation. In the 1980s, this lead to the adoption of hydrochlorofluorocarbon (HCFC) refrigerants like R-22. Compared to CFCs, HCFCs have a significantly lower potential to deplete ozone. But in the 2000s, climatologists began to correlate the use of HCFCs to climate change. To address this concern, the American Innovation and Manufacturing Act of 2020 required transitioning to new refrigerants like R-32 and R-454B. The American Society of Heating, Refrigerating and Air-Conditioning Engineers classifies these refrigerants as “A2Ls”. Starting this year, newly manufactured refrigeration and air conditioning systems must employ A2Ls. When compared to older refrigerants, they provide environmental benefits, improved efficiency, faster thermal recovery and regulatory compliance. They also help homeowners avoid the increasing costs of retiring refrigerants. Even still, don’t feel you need to rush out to replace all of heat pumps, air conditioners, refrigerators and freezers. Existing equipment and the parts, including refrigerant, used for servicing and repairing them are not subject to the new regulations and can continue to be used through equipment end-of-life. The supply of R-410a and R-134a will still be available, as was the case in prior refrigerant transitions in the 1990s and early 2000s. However, when you do find yourself in the market for a new refrigeration appliance, heat pump or air conditioning system, contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com. They may have EnergyWiseSM incentives available to reduce the cost. Your local utility, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you get the most value from the energy they provide.

By: Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you stopped at or driven by a convenience store in the middle of the day and noticed the canopy lights over the gas pumps are on? Or have you noticed a streetlight in your area that never shuts off? What about a glaring yard light that irradiates over much more than the owner’s yard? Finally, when is the last time you entered a room and found the lights were left on after the last person left? These are all examples of improper or needless use of electricity through illumination.  Through the 2020 Residential Energy Consumption Survey, the U.S. Energy Information Administration found that electricity consumption for lighting accounted for about 6% of the electrical use in U.S. homes. That equates to 81 billion kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity. In similar surveys for commercial buildings and industrial facilities, lighting accounted for about 17% (208 billion kWh) and 6% (53 billion kWh) of total electricity use in those areas respectively. Unfortunately, it is estimated that about half of all energy used for lighting is unnecessarily lost. Here are the leading causes of wasted lighting energy: Over-illumination – using too much light or leaving lights on unnecessarily. Inefficient fixtures – light is lost within the fixture before it can provide illumination of the desired area. Inefficient light source – bulbs like incandescent bulbs waste energy by creating much more heat than light. Poor fixture design – Some are not properly shielded and/or aimed sending light where it is not needed or desired. Poor design usually leads to glare. The picture to the right illustrates this problem. The fixture on the left either lost its shielding or never had any causing light to go directly into the observer’s eyes. The fixture on the right is properly shielded. Most of the light produced strikes the area being illuminated before reflecting into our eyes. Uncontrolled lighting – lack of lighting controls, occupancy sensors, or dimming systems allow lights to run unnecessarily. Not utilizing natural light – not taking advantage of natural daylight when and where it is available can lead to increased reliance on artificial lighting. Now that you know the primary causes, here are the solutions: Energy-efficient lighting – Switching to energy-efficient LED lighting and using smart lighting controls. Proper fixture design – Ensuring light fixtures are shielded and aimed correctly by directing light only where it's needed, reducing waste and glare. Natural light utilization – Maximizing natural daylight through window placement during building design to reduce the dependence on artificial lighting. Lighting controls – Installing and integrating occupancy and daylight sensors, smart switches, smart building systems and task lighting to optimize energy use. Your local electric utility, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you gain the most beneficial light from the energy you purchase. They even offer EnergyWiseSM lighting incentives to help you make the most efficient choice. To find additional information, contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer You know it’s springtime when you hear certain sounds in the fresh morning air: the gentle rumble of an approaching thunderstorm, the soft buzzing of bees pollinating flowers, the singing of songbirds announcing their return . . . and that overzealous neighbor who always starts mowing before 7 a.m. on Sundays! You know what that neighbor needs? A robotic mower. Most operate within the range of 55 to 60 decibels (dB). That’s the average level of a conversation between two people speaking in a soft to normal voice. Your neighbor’s gas-powered mower, like others, probably ranges between 90 to 100 dB. That’s the same level of noise produced by hairdryers, blenders and motorcycles. You could also tell your neighbor about the other great advantages robotic mowers have, including: Time savings Whether you’re on vacation or doing projects around the house, robotic mowers operate autonomously, allowing you to set a schedule and forget about mowing. When the mower’s battery is nearly depleted, the mower heads to its station for recharging, which usually takes one to three hours. Then it heads back to keep mowing where it left off. Less maintenance The blades on a robotic mower should be replaced every two to three months. Other than that, occasionally clean the undercarriage, then check and lubricate moving parts, and you should be set. Compare that to the hassle of removing and sharpening blades and changing oil when relying on a gas-powered mower. Healthier lawn Because robotic mowers are designed to mow more frequently, clippings are smaller and decompose more quickly. Compared to mowing once or twice a week with a gas-powered mower, the robotic mower’s reduced length of cut creates less stress to grass and helps to promote a healthier, denser lawn. Efficiency and energy cost savings Consider the seasonal energy use and cost for mowing the average Nebraska lawn, which is reported to be 13,921 square feet according to Today's Homeowner, the #1 syndicated home improvement TV show in the U.S. Over the course of a seven-month mowing season, a randomly selected robotic mower clips the lawn every other day and consumes almost 62 kilowatt-hours (kWh) of electricity. At last mowing season’s average cost of 11.56¢ per kWh in Nebraska, the total is about $7.14. In comparison, this size of lawn could be trimmed with a 21-inch, gas-powered mulching push mower every third day. By the end of the same seven-month mowing season, the push mower will have used 35½ gallons of gasoline and required 71 hours of someone’s time to push it. If gas were $3 per gallon, that comes to $106.50. You can determine what 71 hours of free time is worth. Safety Cutting on slopes with push or riding mowers always presents a safety concern. Robotic mowers can typically mow slopes of 20-35 degrees, with some tackling even steeper grades. More advanced models have sensors that can detect obstacles and maneuver around them or even automatically stop the blades when the mower is lifted. With a little luck, your neighbor’s early morning lawncare routine will never disrupt your morning tranquility again. Who knows? By now, maybe you’re interested in a robotic mower. To find additional information about incentives for purchasing a robotic mower or other energy-saving opportunities, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com

By: Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer

By: Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer As a Cornhusker, we love being top-ranked in the nation. However, there’s top ranking we need to be very concerned about: As per the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency’s (EPA’s) 2023 report, Nebraska ranks third in the country for radon prevalence, with about 59% of the more than 8,500 radon tests in the state exceeding the EPA's action level of 4.0 picocuries per liter (pCi/L). Nebraska’s average radon level was 6.0 pCi/L. After smoking, radon is the second-leading cause of lung cancer in the United States and is responsible for an estimated 21,000 deaths annually. What is radon? It is an element and naturally occurring radioactive gas that forms when uranium, thorium, or radium breaks down in soil, rocks and water. Since the air pressure inside is usually lower than pressure in the soil around our homes, offices, schools and other buildings, it enters through cracks in floors, walls and construction joints, as well as through gaps around service pipes, electrical wires and sump pits. Your home traps radon inside, where it can build up. Radon levels are usually highest in the basement or crawl space. Levels tend to be higher in the winter than in the summer. They can also spike during heavy wind, rain, or snowy weather. It’s easy to test your home’s radon levels. You can hire a professional tester or do it yourself with a kit you buy at a hardware store or online. Start by contacting the Nebraska Radon Program at (402) 471-0594 or visit www.dhhs.ne.gov/radon. If radon levels in your home are high, you can take steps to lower them. The most common and effective method is to have an active vent pipe system installed, which pulls radon from beneath the house and vents it to the outside. A small but efficient fan operates continuously to reduce radon levels 50 to 99%. Fortunately, Nebraska’s ranks fifth in the nation for lowest residential electric rates (12.13¢ per kilowatt-hour). That means the small fan costs less than $3 per month to operate. It’s a small price for safety and well-being! If you have an active system, you should check on a regular basis to make sure the system is working correctly. Most active systems have a manometer, which confirms proper operation. While fans may last for five years or more — manufacturer warranties tend not to exceed five years. At some point, they will require repair or replacement. The EPA has designated January as National Radon Action Month, a time to raise awareness about radon and promote testing and mitigation. If you’d like more information about radon and what can be done to mitigate it, check out this EPA guidance, “A consumer’s guide to Radon Reduction”. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, Southwest Public Power District is dedicated to providing the electricity needed to maintain your home or business safely, effectively and efficiently. To identify additional ways you can become “EnergyWise”, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer If you’ve ever lived through a few Nebraska winters in an old house with single-pane windows, you’ve likely observed the exquisite and ornate artwork by “Jack Frost”. Painted overnight, this left-behind artistry of frosty, fern-like patterns seemed to magically appear on the interior side of windows on the coldest of winter mornings. Window frost has become far less prevalent in current times due to the advancement of double-glazing. These designs may be pretty, but they’re not something you should be happy to see! Rather, it’s a warning that your home is literally losing heat right out the window. While window replacement may be the best solution in the long run, it’s usually the most expensive. If new windows aren’t in the budget, here are a few suggestions that come with a lower price tag: Storm windows If you’re still in a home that only has single-pane windows, give strong consideration to installing storm windows. This will cut the transfer of heat through your single panes in half. While acrylic or plexiglass units may cost as little as $80 per window, expect to pay $125 to $415 per replacement, plus $30 to $80 per hour for professional installation. Window insulation kits If storm windows are still outside of your budget or if your double-pane windows seem drafty on cold, windy days, install window insulation kits. Mounted on the interior or exterior, per window costs start around $6 and can usually be self-installed. Though you won’t be able to open your window until it’s removed, it effectively seals the window and stops air leaks. Insulated Shades According to the U.S. Department of Energy, insulated cellular shades are typically considered to have the highest R-values of all window coverings. The air pockets in the honeycomb cross-sections act as insulators, increasing the R-value and reducing the conduction of heat through the window. During the heating season, tightly installed cellular shades can reduce heat loss through windows by 40% or more. While high-end models may cost as much as $250 per window, less-expensive models that are just as efficient start around $25. Caulking/sealing Collectively, air leaks from and around windows can contribute up to 30% of a home's heating needs. Obviously, sealing these leaks provides huge energy savings! Homeowners generally pay about $50 per average-size, double-hung window to be professionally caulked. However, many find this project easy enough to do themselves. In that case, the average window will require a little less than a tube of silicone-based caulk at a cost starting around $9. Especially in older homes, the gaps between the window frame and window cavity were not properly sealed during installation. While “retro sealing” requires removal of the interior trim, low expansion foam does not distort or bow window and door frames when applied properly and provides an exceptional seal. Costs range from $1.25 to $4 per linear foot when hiring a professional, while a Do-It-Yourself project could cost as little as $0.05 to $0.20 per linear foot. Locks and latches Here’s the simplest, least expensive way to increase window efficiency: use the sash locks or latches. For double-hung and sliding windows, this tightens the sashes together. With casement windows, the sash is tightened into the frame. Either way, air leakage is reduced or eliminated. If your windows don’t have sash locks, most hardware stores offer them at prices starting around $15. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you keep warm this winter season as effectively and efficiently as possible. To find additional ways to save energy every day, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer For something as ubiquitous as electric lighting, it may be hard to imagine a time when our homes were without it. However, using electricity for residential illumination only became common in in the United States during the 1940s. Since then, we’ve been extending our days into our nights, often with a flick of a switch. Consider that almost everyone has a light or a number of lights they rely on to nurse their night owl tendencies. Why wouldn’t you want efficiency, quality and the most overall value from those essential fixtures? Here are a few of the most common, including opportunities for their improvement: Ceiling fixtures Around 2500 BC, the ancient Egyptians began using the first known ceiling lights. Made from clay, these lamps burned animal fat, bees wax or plant-based oils including olive, sesame and grape-seed. Fast-forwarding to the 1950’s, almost all residential ceiling lights required incandescent bulbs. While much safer and efficient than producing light from combustion, about 90% of the electricity they consumed produced heat rather than light. Today, homeowners can select light-emitting diode (LED) replacement bulbs that require six to seven times less electricity to produce the same amount of light while lasting up to 12 times longer. Another option consumers have is to install fully dimmable LED replacement bulbs and the appropriate dimmer switch. By doing so, users can adjust light levels to their desired effect. For even greater energy efficiency and longevity, consider replacing an old fixture with a solid-state LED fixture. Many are also fully dimmable. Solid-state fixtures have embedded LEDs so bulb replacement is no longer necessary. Plug-in lamps It is common to leave a wall or table lamp on for someone needing to pass through an area of the home after everyone else has gone to bed. In 1902, bulbs with two carbon filaments were created to allow for adjustable lighting levels. Shortly thereafter, manufacturing of lamps with multi-level switches allowed homeowners to select multiple illumination levels. This reduced the amount of electricity used when minimal levels of illumination were appropriate. With a simple twist of the switch, full lighting levels could be restored. As with other socket-type fixtures, improving efficiency is as simple as replacing older incandescent bulbs with three-way LED replacement lamps. Outdoor sconces and pathway lights Especially as we enter the winter season and our nights become longer, exterior lighting becomes a matter of maintaining safety. Sidewalks can become snow or ice-covered, which creates slipping hazards. While converting these to LED is an easy option to improve efficiency, when was the last time you cleaned these fixtures? Over the past forty years, The Illuminating Engineering Society has commissioned several luminaire dirt depreciation studies to find that outdoor fixtures can lose 11 to 29 percent of their light output due to outdoor environments. A simple way to reestablish their lighting levels is to add “fixture” cleaning to your fall routine. After a season of dusty winds, lawn mowing and plants pollenating, this is the perfect time to restore their functionality. Plug-in lights How easy is it to plug a small night-light into an electric socket to provide a little extra illumination where you need it? Though they may only require between 2 and 7 watts of power, many operate continuously and do not switch off during the day. Over the course of a year, they can double the amount of energy needed to provide that small amount of extra safety and security. Instead, install an LED night light with a photosensor switch. Most require one watt or less of power to operate and automatically switch “on” or “off” depending on the amount of light from other sources. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, Southwest Public Power District wants to help you effectively and efficiently light up your night when and where you need it! For additional ways you can save energy every day, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer While demand for tankless water heaters continues to increase, more than 95% of homes have conventional storage tank heaters installed. About half use electric resistance or heat pump technology to produce hot water, while the other half uses natural gas or propane. If you’re like most, the only time you think about your water heater is when water fails to come out of the faucet or the tank starts to leak. Most homeowners overlook the importance of regular maintenance, which can lead to decreased efficiency, higher energy bills and premature replacement. The U.S. Department of Energy (DOE) estimates the average product lifetime for storage tank water heaters to be around 15 years. By annually doing the routine maintenance described below, you can help assure your water heater provides the efficiency and longevity you expect. Before starting, use a thermometer to identify your hot water temperature at the faucet located furthest from the hot water heater. Most water heater manufacturers preset thermostats at 140º Fahrenheit (F). The DOE recommends a setpoint of 120°F to optimize efficiency, slow mineral buildup and reduce corrosion. Temperatures lower than this can pose a slight risk of allowing bacterial growth, while temperatures above 140ºF significantly increase inefficiency from standby heat losses and create scalding risks. For every 10 degrees the temperature is lowered, you can expect to save up to 5% in water heating energy use. Next, take safety precautions. This should always be your top priority. Before beginning: 1. Turn off the power: For electric water heaters, switch off the circuit breaker. For gas-fired units, turn the gas valve to the “pilot” position. 2. Identify the cold-water line supplying the water heater and close it. 3. Wait a few hours after turning off the power to allow the water in the tank to cool. 4. Wear gloves and goggles to protect from hot water and debris. 5. If you have a gas water heater, ensure the area is well-ventilated to prevent the buildup of harmful gases. Now, perform the following maintenance steps: 1. Test the Temperature and Pressure Relief (TPR) Valve. The TPR valve is a critical safety device that releases internal pressure if it becomes too high. To test it: a. Place a bucket under the discharge pipe connected to the TPR valve. b. Lift the valve’s tab to release some water. c. If water flows freely and stops when you release the tab, the valve is working correctly. If not, the valve needs to be replaced. 2. For electric resistance and heat pump water heaters, inspect and replace the anode rod if it is less than half-inch in diameter. The anode rod attracts corrosive elements in the water, thus protecting the tank. 3. Flush the tank to remove sediment. Sediment buildup can reduce your heater’s hot water volume, require longer runtimes to provide hot water and corrode elements in electrical units. To flush the tank: a. Connect a garden hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank. b. Open the valve and let the water drain into a bucket and not a floor drain. Sediment could plug the floor drain, creating another problem. c. Once the tank is empty, briefly open the cold-water supply to stir up any remaining sediment. d. Continue flushing until the water runs clear. Close the drain valve, disconnect the hose, and refill the tank. Double-check to assure the TPR valve is closed to prevent flooding the floor. 4. If necessary, adjust the temperature setting. a. Locate the thermostat. While they are often installed on the bottom exterior of gas-powered units, they are usually located behind access panels on electric units. Also, electric units usually have two (top and bottom) thermostats. b. Adjust the dial in the direction you want your hot water temperature to be. You may need to use a screwdriver to adjust the dial. Most thermostats do not have markings that exactly correspond to the desired temperature. Therefore, small adjustments followed by waiting a couple of hours and checking the temperature at the faucet may be necessary to establish the desired temperature. c. Since electric hot water heaters usually have two thermostats, assure both are adjusted to the same setpoint. d. Remember to turn the water heater off or set the thermostat to its lowest setting if you’ll be away from home for more than three days. Southwest Public Power District, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help keep you effectively and efficiently in hot water! For other ways you can save energy while running your household or business, contact Southwest Public Power District or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.