1 simple way to save a bundle on energy this summer

By: Energy Efficiency Program NPPD Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you ever gone over to a friend’s place for a fish dinner and left smelling like fried carp? If so, it could be that their kitchen exhaust hood was not working properly. While commercial kitchens use exhaust systems that are fairly complex, exhaust hoods in most homes are relatively simple. They capture polluted air by drawing it in with a single fan and venting it outside or filtering it before recirculating the air back into the kitchen. In doing so, they reduce the amount of airborne grease, smoke and odors to help protect your walls cabinetry and ceilings. Many kitchen exhaust hoods even assist in removing excess heat or providing additional light over a cooktop or range. Whether you are building a new home, remodeling a kitchen, replacing an old hood or are simply wanting to make the most of your current one, the following factors impact a hood’s effectiveness and efficiency while clearing the air: Types Under-cabinet – Most common type. The fan is usually located in cabinetry above. Wall-mount/Chimney – In addition to the hood, the ducting and often the fan housing are visible. Often matched with high-performance options. Island/Canopy – Ducting extends down from the ceiling over a cooktop. The fan is in the ducting or mounted outside the home. This type requires higher fan capacity due to lack of a wall for smoke containment. Downdraft – Unit is built-in behind or next to the cooktop. This type also requires higher fan capacity due to fumes being drawn downward. Built into microwave – With an overhead microwave, this type is a popular space saver. However, fan capacity is limited. Ducted, Ductless and Convertible Ducted range hoods vent externally, which means they draw kitchen air out of the house through ductwork in the wall, ceiling or floor. External venting is available in all types of range hoods but is particularly common in wall-mount, island, canopy and downdraft types. Ducted range hoods are often labeled as “vented” in product names and specifications. If reducing heat in the kitchen or removing odors is a significant concern, a ducted range hood is recommended. Ductless range hoods filter kitchen air then recirculates it back into the kitchen. Under-cabinet and microwave hoods are most commonly ductless. Ductless range hoods are most common in the under-cabinet and built-in microwave styles. Product specifications will most likely say “recirculation”, indicating it is ductless. As the name implies, a convertible range hood can vent externally or recirculate the kitchen air. Under-cabinet and canopy hoods are the most likely types to be convertible, but keep in mind that kits are available for non-convertible models that make them convertible. Rated CFM The Cubic Feet per Minute (CFM or cfm) rating is a measurement of fan capacity. Hoods over electric ranges or cooktops should have a minimum capacity of 100 CFM per linear foot of appliance. Fan capacity for gas appliances should be a minimum of 1 CFM per 100 British Thermal Units (BTUs) that the stove or cooktop is rated at. (e.g., a 40,000 BTU stove needs 400+ CFM). Note that residential building codes in the state of Nebraska require installation of a makeup air units for kitchen exhaust systems capable of moving 400 CFM or more. Width and Mounting Height The hood must be at least as wide as the stove or cooktop beneath it, if not six inches wider. A 30-inch stove should ideally have a 36-inch hood to capture peripheral smoke and grease, especially for island or canopy installations. For optimal performance, hoods should be mounted 20 to 24 inches above electric ranges and 24 to 30 inches above gas ranges. Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you make the most of the energy they provide. That includes helping you comfortably create culinary creations while using your kitchen in the most efficient manner possible. In addition, they may offer EnergyWiseSM incentives to reduce the initial costs of efficiency improvements. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details.

Spring is a good time to give your home’s electrical system a basic safety check before heavier summer use begins. Start by testing smoke detectors and carbon monoxide alarms and replacing batteries if needed. Check outlets and switches for warmth, buzzing sounds or discoloration, which can indicate wiring problems. Inspect power strips and extension cords and replace any that are damaged or overloaded. Power strips should never be daisy-chained together. Make sure cords are not pinched under furniture or stretched across walkways where they can be damaged. In kitchens and bathrooms, confirm that outlets near sinks are protected by ground-fault circuit interrupters. These outlets help prevent shocks and should be tested monthly. Spring is also a good time to clear clutter away from electrical panels and make sure breakers are clearly labeled. Never block access to the panel. If you notice flickering lights, frequently tripped breakers or burning smells, contact a qualified electrician. Addressing small issues early can prevent fires and costly repairs later.

The arrival of spring can mean a spike in your electricity use, as you turn on fans, spend weekends doing spring cleaning and dust off outdoor power tools to get your home and yard ready for warm weather. Before temperatures start to rise, you can take some small steps to prep your home and appliances for spring and summer. 1. Schedule a home energy audit. Audits can identify air leaks, insulation gaps and inefficient appliances that quietly drive-up costs. Look for programs offered by your electric cooperative or local government that might reimburse you for energy-efficiency upgrades like smart thermostats, heat pump water heaters and ENERGY STAR-certified appliances. 2. Review your family’s thermostat habits. As outdoor temperatures rise, resist the temptation to turn on the air conditioning sooner than needed. Instead, use ceiling fans to avoid high cooling costs without sacrificing comfort. Fans cool people, not rooms, so turning them off when leaving a room saves energy. 3. Replace dirty air conditioning filters. Clear debris from outdoor units. And schedule professional maintenance to improve efficiency and extend the life of the system. 4. Read your energy bills carefully. Understanding how rates work, including time-of-use or seasonal pricing, can help households adjust use to avoid peak charges. Ask about budget billing or for alerts when your electricity use spikes. Taking advantage of co-op programs and forming smart habits now can make a noticeable difference when summer temperatures arrive.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Have you heard what the latest gossip around the water cooler is about? The water cooler, itself! Business experts have long debated whether there is value to the chat that occurs when office employees meet during their venture to the device to obtain hot water for tea, coffee or a refreshing glass of cold water. Water cooler conversations tend to revolve around weekend plans, popular TV shows, movies, sports, or office-related, non-work-specific news. While traditional management approaches ranged from discouraging to prohibiting these interactions, research from the University of California, Santa Cruz reveals these interactions are crucial for boosting company culture, improving employee collaboration, fostering social support, and reducing stress. So where did this common office fixture come from? In 1906, Halsey Willard Taylor and Luther Haws were exploring ways to further reduce the deadly impact of typhoid in schoolchildren. Research during the middle of the previous century determined it primarily spread though drinking contaminated water. Observing that schoolchildren were drinking from communal tin cups of water, Hawley invented and placed the water fountains (or bubblers) into schools. In 1909, Haws created the Haws Sanitary Drinking Faucet company and patented his water cooler in 1911. The early water coolers stored water in a sealed glass container and used large blocks of ice to chill it. Shortly before the 1920s, the first five gallon water bottles began to appear and the iconic “upside-down bottle on a cooler” design often associated with 20th-century office life was launched. By 1938, the world’s first ‘self-contained electric water cooler’ was patented that provided internal refrigeration and eliminated the need for ice deliveries. The 1950s and ‘60s saw the introduction of hot and cold-water dispensers, which remain the standard design today. Today’s water coolers also have features such as touchless dispensing sensors, temperature controls, UV sterilization and machine usage tracking. Since sustainability and optimizing employee health have become major business interests with concerns of plastic waste skyrocketing and microplastics entering our bodies, most businesses have or are switching to plumbed and internally filtered water coolers. While these features can significantly add to the unit’s energy use, water coolers that have earned an Energy Star® certification save 22% or more of the energy that an uncertified, conventional model would use. In fact, if all water coolers sold in the U.S. were Energy Star®-certified, the energy cost savings would equate to more than $250 million each year. With the average commercial water cooler typically lasting five to 10 years, total savings would be between $1.25 and $2.5 billion. Your local public power provider, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, has additional ideas of how to efficiently use the electricity they provide. In addition, they may offer EnergyWiseSM incentives to reduce the initial costs of efficiency improvements. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details.

Laundry can be a bigger winter energy user than people expect, but small adjustments save money without sacrificing cleanliness. Some rules of thumb: · Modern detergents work well in cold water, and many loads come out just as clean. · Wash full loads and select the right water level. For lightly soiled items, choose a quick or eco cycle. · Use high-spin settings to remove more water and shorten drying time. Dryer balls help separate clothing so warm air circulates better. · Clean the lint trap every cycle and check the vent hose for buildup. A clogged vent extends dryer run time and raises fire risk. · Time laundry for mid-day when the home may already be warmer or when off-peak electricity rates apply.

An electrical outlet that’s slightly warm to the touch is not uncommon during heavy use, but it can also be a sign of danger. · Start by unplugging any devices that are using it, and then feel the outlet again. If the warmth disappears, the problem may be the appliance or a loose plug. Test the device on another outlet. · If the outlet remains warm with nothing plugged in, do not use it. That suggests loose wiring, a failing receptacle or an overloaded circuit. Call an electrician to diagnose the trouble. · Never use extension cords or ungrounded adapters as a long-term fix. Limit high-draw appliances to dedicated circuits and never run space heaters from a power strip. · If you see discoloration, smell burning or notice sparks, shut off power to the circuit and call a licensed electrician.

Southwest Public Power District has an opening for the position of Journeyman or Apprentice power line worker. Duties include, but are not limited to, maintenance and construction of overhead and underground distribution and sub-transmission facilities. The District operating hours are a compressed work schedule with every other Friday off. After-hours and on-call duty are required. This position requires heavy lifting, pole climbing, and other strenuous activity and working well with other crew members. Must be able to complete associated written and electronic documentation. Must possess a valid Class B CDL and pass a pre-employment drug and alcohol test. Southwest Public Power District offers an excellent wage and benefit package, including paid vacation, sick leave, paid health insurance, and funded retirement plan. Southwest Public Power District’s headquarters office is in Palisade, Nebraska. The region’s schools, small communities, and recreational opportunities make it a great place to live and raise a family. Interested individuals must email a resume, including job training and three references to: jobs@swppd.com. Southwest Public Power District is an equal opportunity employer. Position will be open until filled.

Even if you had a tech come to your home for a pre-season heating check, you should keep on top of simple HVAC maintenance to up your chances of making it through the winter without any emergency repairs. Cold snaps in February put heavy demand on heating systems, and small issues can quickly become big emergencies. Following a brief maintenance checklist can save money and prevent expensive, late-night calls.  · Begin with filters. Replace disposable filters or clean reusable ones. A clean filter reduces strain and improves airflow. · Check vents and registers to make sure furniture or curtains aren’t blocking airflow. Restricted airflow makes the system run longer and increases wear. · Inspect visible ductwork where you can access it. Seal loose connections with foil HVAC tape or mastic. Leaky ducts waste heated air and force the furnace to run more to maintain temperature. · Clear any snow or ice from outdoor heat-pump units and keep a three-foot clearance around them. Unusual noises or persistent burning smells are early signs of trouble. Call a licensed HVAC technician before a minor issue becomes a failure.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Everyone’s looking for a good deal. There’s no exception when it comes to home improvements, especially if you own an older home. If you find yourself in that category and are planning a major renovation, consider that adding insulation during your project often pays for the additional cost with energy savings in two to five years. According to Energy Star®, homeowners can save an average of 15% on heating and cooling costs by adding insulation in attics, floors over crawl spaces, and accessible basement rim joists. Adding insulation can also increase the value of your home. Remodeler Magazine’s “Cost vs. Value Report,” which breaks down both the cost and return on investment of many home improvement options, noted that adding fiberglass attic insulation increased home value by an average of 17%. Considering the North American Insulation Manufacturers Association estimates that almost 90% of existing U.S. homes are under-insulated, familiarizing yourself with the following most-common types might be a good place to start. Blanket Insulation While most commonly sold in rolls or batts of spun fiberglass filaments, blanket insulation is also produced from cotton, cellulose and mineral wool. They’re made in various thicknesses, but usually in the standard widths of 15 and 23 inches so they easily fill the cavities between joists or studs. Blanket insulation is also ideal for unfinished attics. Not only is it easy to cut and install, but more than one layer can be installed to achieve the desired level of insulation. Loose-Fill and Blown-In Insulation Since attics often have limited headroom and numerous obstructions, loosefill insulation is a popular choice. It can easily be blown on top of existing insulation and other obstructions like ducting, can light fixtures and cross beams. Rock wool, cellulose and fiberglass are the most common materials used to make loose-fill insulation. Foam Board or Rigid Foam Foam board is a rigid panel made from polystyrene or polyisocyanurate. It provides a high level of thermal resistance (R-value) per inch when compared to other types of insulation. It can easily be installed in a variety of applications, including walls, roofs and floors. Because it provides a vapor barrier when properly sealed, it can help control moisture, reduce air leaks and keep pests from invading your home. Because of its rigidity, it's self-supporting, doesn't sag and provides continuous insulation, which effectively blocks heat transfer better than batts. Spray Foam and Foamed-In-Place Insulation Similar to foam board, spray foam insulation and foamed-in-place insulation is a liquid polyurethane plastic that is sprayed directly on the area being insulated. As the liquid is sprayed, it expands and hardens to create a dense foam that seals gaps and forms an air-tight vapor barrier. This significantly improves energy efficiency since it significantly reduces heat transfer while stopping air leaks in walls, attics and crawlspaces at the same time. There are two main types of spray foam insulation: open-cell, which is less dense and good for soundproofing; and closed cell, which is denser, offers higher R-values, adds structural strength and resists moisture. Adding insulation can be one of the most cost-effective projects you can do to make your home energy efficient. If you primarily use electricity to heat your home and there are six inches or less of insulation in your attic, your local public power provider may have an EnergyWiseSM incentive available once installation is complete. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details. Your local utility, in partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, wants to help you get the most value from the energy needed to keep your home comfortably warm.