Prep home before warm weather begins

By: NPPD's Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer If you have traveled from Nebraska’s panhandle towards the southeast in the middle of summer, you likely know it can be a long and hot road trip. However, the further south and east you travel, you will probably notice that it is not only the temperature that is rising: humidity. High humidity can make those summer days feel even sweltering. While air-conditioning systems are tasked with removing most of this excess indoor humidity, many homes and businesses in the eastern half of the state also require stand-alone dehumidifiers to achieve acceptable levels. The Consumer Product Safety Commission and the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency recommend a humidity levels between 40 and 50% for most indoor environments. In addition to eliminating the muggy, clammy feeling, additional dehumidification can: Improve air quality Lessen allergy and asthma symptoms Inhibit mold growth Diminish musty odors Reduce airborne dust Suppress dust mites Protect a home or building’s structural integrity However, operating dehumidifiers can have a dramatic impact on summer utility bills. Even a medium-sized portable unit (50 pints per day) can add an additional $100 per month if the unit is set to operate continuously on its highest setting. If your home or business requires a separate dehumidifier to manage humidity level, here are some ideas of how to do it most efficiently. When shopping for a dehumidifier, purchase an ENERGY STAR®-certified model. Dehumidifiers that earn this certification use more efficient refrigeration coils, compressors and fans to remove the same amount of moisture as a similarly sized conventional unit but use about 15% less energy. Dehumidifier efficiency is measured with an Integrated Energy Factor (IEF), which is in the amount of electricity (kilowatt hours (kWh)) the unit consumes for each liter (L) of moisture removed from the air. To be eligible for certification, minimum IEF values are: Units rated up to 25 pints/day – IEF of =.70 L/kWh or greater. Units rated at 25.01 to 50 pints/day – IEF = 2.01 L/kWh or greater. Units at over 50 pints/day – IEF = 3.30 L/kWh or greater. Set the humidistat so the dehumidifier does not run continuously. For basements in the summertime, 50% relative humidity is recommended. In colder weather, relative humidity levels between 25 and 40% are advised to reduce condensation on windows. Tightly close all windows and doors to the area being conditioned to minimize humidity coming from outside air. Place the dehumidifier in the area with the highest humidity but avoid creating a safety hazard by placing it in or near water. Dehumidifiers are not the solution to standing water (or running water) in basements. Make sure the dehumidifier is connected to a properly grounded outlet. Position the dehumidifier away from the wall or furniture so air can freely circulate through the unit. Hook up a drain hose to the dehumidifier to eliminate the need to continuously empty the tank. Keep the dehumidifier clean. Wipe or vacuum dust and dirt from the coils and fan. If you have a choice of fan speeds, higher speeds are more efficient, though lower speeds are quieter. Reduce energy use during peak electric use periods. Put your dehumidifier on a timer to turn it on at 9 p.m. and off at 10 a.m. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, your local utility wants to help you stay cool, comfortable and healthy this summer. Contact them or visit www.enerywisenebraska.com if you would like more information on ways to improve your energy efficiency, as well as various EnergyWiseSM incentives that may be available to you for implementing energy efficient technologies.

Summer heat can be tough on people. It can also be tough on batteries. Many of the devices we use every day contain lithium-ion batteries. That includes phones, laptops, tablets, power tools, e-bikes and e-scooters. These batteries work best when they stay within a moderate temperature range. Excessive heat can shorten battery life and, in rare cases, create safety risks. One of the worst places for a battery-powered device is a parked car. On a sunny day, temperatures inside a vehicle can climb quickly. Leaving a phone or laptop in a hot car can damage the battery and reduce its ability to hold a charge. Watch for warning signs. If a battery becomes unusually hot, starts swelling, leaks fluid or gives off a burning smell, stop using the device immediately. Damaged lithium-ion batteries can become dangerous. A few simple steps can help: • Keep devices out of direct sunlight. • Do not leave them in hot vehicles. • Use the charger recommended by the manufacturer. • If a battery-powered device becomes very hot while charging, unplug it and let it cool. A little heat awareness can help your devices last longer and operate more safely.

During the summer, attic temperatures can climb far above outdoor levels, allowing heat to radiate down into living spaces. This hidden source of heat can make your air conditioning system work harder than necessary. Start by checking attic ventilation. Soffit and ridge vents should be clear and unobstructed to allow hot air to escape. Blocked vents can trap heat and increase indoor temperatures. Gaps around attic access points, such as pull-down stairs or hatches, can also allow hot air to enter the home. Sealing these areas with weatherstripping or insulation can help reduce heat transfer. In some cases, attic fans may improve airflow, but they should be used carefully to avoid disrupting the balance of the home’s ventilation system. Still, addressing attic heat does not require a full renovation. Even small improvements in insulation can make a difference by slowing the movement of heat into living areas.

Older homes can be especially difficult to keep cool during peak summer heat, but expensive window replacements are not the only solution. Small, targeted changes can make a noticeable difference. Start by sealing air leaks. Caulking and weatherstripping around outlets and windows—both indoors and out—can help keep hot air out and cooled air in. At night, take advantage of lower outdoor temperatures by opening windows and using fans to pull in cooler air. In the morning, close windows and blinds early to trap that cooler air inside. Temporary window improvements can also help. Interior inserts, cellular shades and reflective panels reduce heat gain without permanent installation. Focus on south- and west-facing windows, which receive the most direct sunlight. It may also help to run your air conditioning earlier in the day, before outdoor temperatures peak. This can reduce strain on the system later. While older homes present energy-efficiency challenges, a combination of sealing and shading, along with smart timing, can improve comfort without major renovations.

Window air conditioning units are a common solution for summer cooling, but many lose efficiency due to simple installation issues. A few small adjustments can improve performance and reduce energy use. · Start by sealing gaps around the unit. Even small openings above or beside the unit allow hot air to enter and cooled air to escape. The accordion panels that come with many units often provide minimal insulation, so adding foam board or insulation can improve their effectiveness. · Outdoor shade can also make a difference. Direct sunlight forces the unit to work harder, so installing an awning or placing shade above the unit can reduce the load. Inside, keep curtains or blinds closed during the hottest part of the day.  · Regular maintenance matters as well. Clean or replace filters to maintain proper airflow and check that the unit is slightly tilted outward so condensation drains correctly.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer According to data from the Air-Conditioning, Heating and Refrigeration Institute, more U.S. homes purchased heat pumps than traditional gas furnaces combined with central air-conditioner (AC) systems for the last four years. Though sales in 2025 declined nearly 500,000 units from 2024, heat pump systems still outsold traditional central furnace/air-conditioning combinations 4,122,000 to 3,247,000. To achieve this level of popularity, heat pumps have had to overcome several misperceptions and falsehoods. Here are a few accurate descriptions of today’s modern heat pump: Heat pumps work really well when it is “real” cold According to Consumer Reports, “Heat pumps can work almost anywhere if carefully chosen and properly installed.” The misperception that heat pump systems can’t handle Nebraska’s harsh winters is simply not true. Though they are installed with back-up heating systems, those only operate during the most extremely cold hours of the year. The heat pump itself, with efficiencies two-to-more-than-five times greater than their back-up systems, can satisfy the overwhelming majority of heating requirements during the year. Heat pumps are for both heating and cooling Some people think a heat pump can only move heat from outside to inside a home or building. But in fact, air-source heat pumps operate like a central air-conditioning unit in the summer by removing heat from inside. They also appear nearly identical to a central air-conditioning unit. Unless you know that both refrigerant lines that attach to the outdoor unit are insulated for heat pumps, whereas only one of the lines to a central air conditioner unit is insulated, you probably will not know the difference. Heat pumps have few maintenance issues Most heat pump performance issues are caused by installation errors, improper sizing, airflow problems, or control settings, not by faulty equipment. Correct design, commissioning, and maintenance are critical to ensuring they can provide high levels of efficiency for years to come. Heat pumps blow warm air out of the vents Gas furnaces can blast air around 130°F to 140°F for a few minutes before turning off. But heat pumps gently blow warm air at 85°F to 95°F for longer periods to provide more consistent temperatures throughout the home or building. Because human body temperature is around 98.6 degrees Fahrenheit, this airflow can feel cool against your skin. To prevent this sensation, avoid sitting or standing directly in the path of airflows from vents. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, your local public power provider wants to help you efficiently heat and cool the spaces where you live in. To learn more about high-efficiency heat pump systems and EnergyWiseSM incentives to reduce the costs of efficiency improvements, contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com.

As temperatures rise, so do reports of door-to-door home repair scams. Contractors may show up uninvited, claiming your air conditioner is about to fail or your roof was damaged in a recent storm. Some even say they are already working in your neighborhood and can offer a “today only” deal. Don’t fall for it. These high-pressure tactics are designed to push homeowners into quick decisions. Warning signs include requests for large upfront payments, insistence on cash, lack of a written estimate or no verifiable business address. In some cases, scammers may pose as utility workers and ask to check your meter or demand payment to avoid service shutoff. Before agreeing to any work, take a few minutes to verify the company. Ask for a license number and proof of insurance. Look up the business independently and check for reviews or complaints. Legitimate contractors will provide written estimates and allow time for questions. If something feels off, it probably is. Taking a pause can protect both your home and your wallet during the busiest repair season of the year.

That extra refrigerator in the garage or basement may seem convenient, especially during summer parties, but it can come with a noticeable cost. Older refrigerators, particularly those kept in hot spaces like garages, often run less efficiently than newer models. And if you have one in a garage without air conditioning, hot weather will force it to work harder and use more energy to stay cool. Even newer units can run up your energy bill. Running a second refrigerator year-round means paying for continuous cooling, whether it’s fully stocked or not. In many cases, the cost is higher than you might expect. If you rely on a second fridge, consider how and when you use it. Keeping it full actually helps efficiency, as items inside retain cold better than empty air. Regularly check door seals and clean the coils to keep it running properly. If the unit is rarely needed, it may be worth unplugging it except during peak use times, like before holiday parties. For older models, upgrading to an energy-efficient unit surely will reduce energy use and operating costs.

By: NPPD Energy Efficiency Program Manager Cory Fuehrer Andreas Stihl became known as “The Father of the Modern Chainsaw” when he patented and began production of his first electric-powered unit in 1926. While advertised as portable, the saw weighed a whopping 116 pounds. Surprisingly, the first gas-powered chainsaw was not marketed until the following year by Emil Lerp. It weighed 125 pounds. It was not until the end of World War II that all chainsaws had to be carried and used by two people. Finally, in 1950, the first one-person chainsaw became commercially available. Although these saws were initially gas-powered, Stihl began producing corded electric models in the late 1960s. Due to their limited power range, need for an outlet nearby and safety risk associated with cutting their power cord, they were not very popular. But by the late 2010s, battery technology advanced far enough to place cordless electric chainsaws ahead of gas-powered saws in many ways. Today, we can consider these advantages: Fueling – Simply slide the battery into the unit. This eliminates the need to mix gasoline with two-stroke oil, which often leads to unintended spill. Because cordless chainsaws do not use a gasoline mixture, you never have to worry about old fuel gumming up or fouling a carburetor during long storage periods. To refuel a cordless unit, recharge the battery and re-insert it into the saw. Starting – Have you ever grown frustrated trying to start a stubborn gas-powered saw by pumping the primer bulb, flicking the choke and pulling the cord again with no results? You will find that a cordless electric chainsaw starts the second you pull the throttle trigger. Less vibration – Electric motors used in cordless chainsaws generate significantly less vibration than combustion engines used in gas-powered saws, which reduces the amount of hand and arm fatigue created during extended cutting sessions. Less maintenance – There are no spark plugs, air filters, or carburetors to clean and replace on a cordless electric chainsaw. For smooth operation, you only need to keep the chain sharp and add chain oil when the reservoir runs low. Reduced noise – Cordless electric chainsaws operate significantly quieter than gas engines by averaging 80 to 95 decibels compared to 100 to 115 decibels for gas-powered saws. Several cordless models are rated at 70 decibels or less, which is comparable to the average face-to-face conversation. Lightweight – Though cordless electric chainsaws have the added weight of a rechargeable battery. The absence of a heavy engine block and a full gas tank makes them lighter than their gas-powered counterparts. In addition, there is no need to take along a gas can for large cutting assignments. Size variety – While the largest one-person chainsaws continue to be gas-powered, cordless electric models are available that can compare to those with a 28-inch cutting bar and driven by an 80 cc engine. On the other end of the spectrum, some with a 4-inch cutting bar are small enough to carry in a coat pocket. If your local electric utility is an EnergWiseSM partner, you could be eligible for an incentive of up to 20% of the cost for a cordless electric chainsaw, batteries and a charger. Contact your local utility or visit www.energywisenebraska.com for additional details. In partnership with Nebraska Public Power District, your local utility wants to help you get the most value from the energy needed to get things done.